First Timer's Guide to Beirut & Lebanon
Photo by Arthaus Beirut
Lebanon is layered and complicated, but on the ground it feels surprisingly easy in all the ways that matter: warm people, casual style, and a genuine pride in welcoming visitors. I’ve never felt unsafe here—if anything, I’ve been waved into friend gatherings, invited into family homes and pressed to stay for “one more” arak. Lebanon has absolutely shifted my own perceptions, and I’m on a mission to help more travelers experience the real thing, not just the scary headlines. For a country that’s about the size as Connecticut, it packs a lot in.
The Lebanese really love US travelers, and many have family residing in the States, so you’ll find a warm welcome from them.
What Lebanon doesn’t have is plug-and-play infrastructure. There’s no real public transportation network, addresses are more of a suggestion than a system, and the best guesthouses aren’t on your typical booking sites or business websites don’t exist, so they operate on WhatsApp. That’s exactly why having a local-minded planner (hi, that’s me) and trusted drivers makes the difference between a stressful DIY and the most rewarding trip you’ll take all year.
Why Lebanon Isn’t a Point-and-Click Destination (and Why That’s a Good Thing)
If your usual style is: “Book a flight, hop on public transit, Google Maps everything,” Lebanon is going to feel…different.
No real public transportation. There’s no metro or cross-country train network, and the local minibuses aren’t designed with first-timers in mind. Outside Beirut, you’re relying on private cars, shared taxis, or a driver.
Addresses are vibes, not coordinates. You’ll hear directions like “next to the bakery” or “behind the old cinema,” and half the places you actually want to go won’t have a website. Typically you have to find them on Instagram and confirm through WhatsApp.
Limited hotel inventory, incredible one-off stays. Some of the best places to sleep—stone houses in the hills, family-run agri-lodges, guesthouses by the sea—don’t show up on big booking engines, and they book out well in advance in August.
Roads that reward guts + guidance. Driving here is absolutely possible if you’re confident behind the wheel and flexible about lane discipline. But most first-timers are much happier with a vetted local driver who knows the mountain roads, shortcuts, and where to stop for fruit stands and viewpoints. Also the local traffic at certain times and roads is bumper to bumper so you really need to think ahead for certain jaunts.
None of this is a reason not to come. It’s the reason to come with support. With the right planning, Lebanon feels less like “logistics Tetris” and more like being whisked around by friends who know all the good spots.
If you’d like help stitching all of this together—drivers, guesthouses, wineries, and memorable meals—you can always learn more here, or reach reach out directly, so I can map it with you.
Getting Around Lebanon (Why a Driver Is Your Secret Weapon)
Getting around Beirut by Uber, on foot, or with local “service” taxis is manageable. Once you leave the city, it’s a different story.
For first-timers, I generally recommend:
Private driver for day trips or full days. This is the sweet spot for most people. You don’t have to decode bus stations, you can change plans midday, and you’ve got someone who actually knows which mountain road is washed out this week.
Gutsy self-drive if that’s your thing. If you’re a confident city driver and don’t mind creative interpretations of lanes and traffic lights, renting a car is possible. Just know that signage can be limited, Google Maps isn’t always up to date, and you’ll want up-to-the-minute local advice on which routes are best.
Trusted local operators. I work with vetted on-the-ground partners and car companies who can provide English-speaking drivers and guides, whether you’re hopping north to Batroun, inland to the Bekaa Valley and Baalbek, or down the coast.
However you decide to move around, don’t rely on public transportation to connect the dots. It isn’t built for visitors, and you’ll lose a lot of time and energy trying to improvise. Build drivers and transfers into your budget from the beginning—you’ll see more, stress less, and likely eat better because your driver will have favorite stops along the way.
Beyond Beirut: Don’t Just Day-Trip Everything
Beirut makes an excellent home base, but if you only crash here, you’re missing the magic of slow mornings in the mountains and late seaside dinners where everyone at the next table is a local.
If you can, plan at least:
1–2 nights in a coastal town like Tyre, Byblos or Batroun for beach clubs, wine, and those small-town evening strolls where everyone seems to know everyone.
1–2 nights in wine country or the hills near the Bekaa Valley, Chouf, or Douma area, where the air feels different, and your day revolves around vineyards, hikes, and long lunches.
These are also the regions I’m weaving into my upcoming Lebanon Dinner Series: a progressive set of hosted dinners in Beirut, the Batroun hillsides, and the Baalbek wine region. If you’re curious about timing and how to join, there’s a link at the bottom of this guide to hop on the interest list.
A few other helpful tips:
Currency: When I first arrived in 2017, the Lebanese Lira was used interchangeably with US currency at a fixed 1,500 LBP to $1 USD. Now, it’s so been devalued so much and changes frequently from $1 to up to 90,000 Lira. If you come, bring USD with you and exchange only if you need to at a place that exchanges based on the real rate, not at the bank. Right now, you can use USD everywhere again and prices have leveled off to 1USD to 89,000 Lebanese Pound. Ask your hotel to help you and get the real local insight at the current time. If you come with a bit of USD on you, you will avoid additional bank fees, and the very inaccurate bank exchange rates. Also you can use credit card at places and hotels. Have the local dollars for easy spending, cabs, and shops. Most will appreciate if you pay in cash or only accept it in smaller shops or taxis.
Language: The dominant language is Arabic, however, the majority speak English and French in the city and tourist areas. You will be fine getting by on English, so don't stress.
Pro Tip: On Sundays, a majority of the shops and businesses are closed. Restaurants and bars are still open (some may close for mid-day and re-open at 7:30/8 pm, so check the times), but don't plan on visiting Bourj Hammoud, shopping or certain activities that day, because you'll be disappointed. Just ask ahead any tour operator or hotel.
Have a Lebanon insider arrange your visit. Get someone who can help arrange all that in a perfect two-week itinerary. It’s worth making time or you can manage in a shorter, condensed itinerary for one-week if you don’t have enough time.
Places to See in Lebanon
Bekaa Valley & Mount Lebanon – Think wine country meets mountain escape. In winter, Faraya’s slopes are blanketed in snow; in summer, you’ve got rolling green hills and winery tours. Consider a stay at Terre Brune, with its infinity pool overlooking Roman ruins.
Baalbek & Anjar – Baalbek’s monumental Roman temples are one of Lebanon’s five UNESCO World Heritage Sites and absolutely worth the drive; pair it with nearby Anjar and overnight at Al Haush, an agri-farm B&B that feels wonderfully unplugged.
Byblos – Often cited as one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, Byblos layers ancient ruins, a picturesque harbor, and easy seaside drinks into one very walkable stop.
Batroun & the North Coast – An hour north of Beirut, Batroun has emerged as a low-key cool coastal getaway with wineries, breweries, and a growing surf scene. Stay at Villa Paradiso, Breathe Guesthouse, Beit al Batroun, or Abdelli Terraces in the hills above town.
Sidon & Tyre (Saida & Sour) – South of Beirut, Sidon’s historic souk and sea castle pair well with a day (or overnight) in Tyre, home to another UNESCO site and a beach scene that feels more Greek Isles or South of France than you’d expect.
Cedars & Mountain Villages – Head inland to see the famed Cedars of God and nearby villages for cooler air, hiking, and traditional guesthouses.
Jeita Grotto – A short trip from Beirut, Jeita’s limestone caves are some of the most impressive you’ll ever see. Photos aren’t allowed, which is half the reason to go: you simply have to experience it.
Hiking & Waterfalls – Lebanon is full of dramatic trails and viewpoints. Baatara Gorge (the “Baatara Waterfall”) is a standout, along with lesser-known mountain paths your driver or local guide can help you uncover.
Explore Beirut on Foot (with a Guide) – Beirut isn’t the most pedestrian-friendly city, but a guided walking tour is the best way to understand its layers of history, street art, and neighborhoods—and to get your bearings for the rest of your stay.
Where to Stay
Best areas to stay and be among the action - Mar Mikhael, Gemmayze, Hamra, Badaro or Downtown Beirut. There are some recognizable hotel brands like Radisson Blu, Four Seasons (under construction, Kempinski, Ramada and InterContinental. Non-chain options I would highly suggest are...
Arthuas Beirut, Hotel Lost, Beit Tamanna - all in the best parts of Gemmayze
Hotel Albergo, a Relais & Châteaux property, in the posh neighborhood Monot and rooftop pool
Hotel Lost, in the heart of Gemmayze, that is perfect for being in the middle of the action and bottom of the famous St. Nicholas Stairs that connects you to the landmark Sursock Museum.
The Smallville (Beirut) located in Badaro neighborhood and popular street of bars and restaurants
Hamra Urban Gardens with a rooftop pool for those hot summer days (same owner as Saifi)
Kintsugi is a design-forward boutique hotel in the heart of Mar Mikhael, the perfect neighborhood to base yourself
Baffa House - tucked away in the weaving side streets of Mar Mikhael with a lovely garden cafe restaurant
Guest houses curated by L'HOTE Libanais
Dar Alma - Tyre (Sour) boutique hotel with seafront rooms
Souk El Tayeb has a few b&b style "homes" called Beit around Lebanon that are worth checking out; Beit Douma has to be my favorite so far which is a short drive from Batroun
Spend some time in the Chouf at a guesthouse style Bkerzay (you can take pottery classes), Deir al Oumara, Mir Amin Palace or Bouyouti Hotel.
Where to Dine & Drink in Beirut
Many restaurants and businesses are not easy to find because they don't typically have a website or aren't listed on Google Maps. For the Westerner that I am, I was initially miffed of where to find all the information and where to go. Toters is their local Yelp/GrubHub type, so download the app or visit the website. It's a great guide to dining in Lebanon and specifically Beirut. A few favorites of mine so far...
Dining
Ferdinand - Great spot for gourmet burgers and cocktails in Hamra
Santana's located in Monot - a chic neighborhood that's a great stroll
Abdel Wahab - Noteworthy Lebanese restaurant in Monot (next to Santana's) with a great ambiance and décor
Al Falamanki - Traditional Lebanese dishes in a green garden setting
Baron - Amazing variety of cuisine and the best selection for vegetarians (*very expensive)
Kintsugi has great bar and restaurant
Mario E Mario - Delicious Italian with a rooftop terrace in season
Mayrig - Very good spot for mezze dishes to share and sit outside on their terrace
Mezyan - Delicious dishes in a space that you won't notice as the entrance is through what appears to be an office building then through that corridor
Liza - Featured on Vogue.com and Condé Nast Traveler, traditional Lebanese with incredible interiors to marvel at while you dine
Tawlet - Local chefs from around Lebanon prepare their daily lunch buffets; they offer cooking classes so ask in advance and visit the Souk El Tayeb market on Wednesdays and Saturdays at Beirut Souks
Coffee & Drinks
Kalei Coffee Co.
Aaliya's Books - has returned from the rubble and reopened
Sip
Urbanista
Ales & Tales
Brick's
Dragonfly
The Jerry Experience
Attic Bar
The Next Whiskey Bar & Tota (next to each other)
Brew - Brand new brewery, locally produced beer
Kissproof
Central Station Boutique Bar
Gouraud to Armenia Street - You cannot go wrong with walking up and down this street from the Mosque to Bourj Hammoud area; plenty of bars and nightlife!
Nightclubs: Skybar, Seven Sisters, Grand Factory, Garten, Iris - A club on top of a warehouse that's worth a visit to get a taste of the scene
This post will continue to be updated as things can change and new places open! Thanks for dropping by and spreading the good word about Lebanon.